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Advanced Education • Technical Blueprint
The Blueprint
Basic Step-By-Steps • Product Lists
Nail Prep — The Foundation
This sequence applies to ALL services — gel polish, Gel X, builder gel, acrylic. Skipping any step is the #1 cause of lifting and peeling.
- 1Remove Old ProductUse acetone soak or e-file to fully remove any old gel, acrylic, or polish. Never rip or peel.
- 2Shape & File Natural NailFile the free edge to your desired shape. Move in one direction to prevent splitting.
- 3Push Back & Trim CuticlesUse a cuticle pusher to gently push back the cuticle. Nip only dead skin — never live tissue.
- 4Buff the Nail PlateLightly buff with a 180–220 grit buffer to remove shine and create texture for adhesion.
- 5Dust & WipeBrush away dust, then wipe each nail with a lint-free wipe soaked in 99% isopropyl alcohol.
- 6Apply DehydratorSwipe dehydrator (Young Nails Protein Bond or IBD Desiccant) over every nail. Let it fully evaporate — do NOT wipe off.
- 7Apply Primer (if needed)For acrylics or hard gel: apply a thin coat of primer and let dry. Skip for soft builder gel.
What You'll Need for Prep
- Cuticle pusher + nippers
- 180 or 220 grit buffer block
- Clean nail brush
- Lint-free wipes (never cotton balls)
- 99% Isopropyl Alcohol
- Dehydrator — Young Nails Protein Bond, IBD Desiccant, or similar
- Primer — acid-free for gel/Gel X; acid-based for acrylics
Gel X Extensions
Soft gel tips that soak off with acetone. Beginner-friendly and fast. Complete all 7 nail prep steps before starting — Gel X will lift if you skip prep.
- 1Complete Full Nail PrepAll 7 steps above. This is non-negotiable.
- 2Apply Base Gel (Slip Layer)Thin, even coat of Apres Extend Gel or builder gel to the entire nail plate. Don't cure yet.
- 3Size & Fit the TipSelect the tip that covers sidewall to sidewall with no gaps. File down to size if needed.
- 4Apply Adhesive to Tip (Optional)Add a small dot of extend gel inside the apex of the tip for extra bond.
- 5Press & HoldAlign at the cuticle area, press at 45°, then lay flat. Hold with firm pressure for 10–15 seconds.
- 6CureCure under LED/UV lamp for 60 seconds. Wipe the inhibition layer with lint-free wipe + IPA.
- 7Shape & RefineE-file or hand file to shape, thin the apex if needed, and refine sidewalls.
- 8Design & Top CoatApply your nail art, seal with top coat, cure and wipe.
Gel X Product List
- All nail prep products (see Prep guide)
- Gel X tips kit — Apres, Beetles, or Modelones
- Builder / Extend Gel — Apres Extend Gel, Modelones Builder Gel
- UV/LED nail lamp (36W+ recommended)
- Gel brush (flat or oval)
- Lint-free wipes + IPA (to wipe inhibition layer)
- E-file or hand file (180 grit for shaping)
- No-wipe gel top coat
Acrylic Extensions
Maximum control over shape and structure. More practice required, but unmatched durability. Full prep including acid primer is required — no exceptions.
- 1Complete Full Nail PrepAll 7 steps, including dehydrator AND acid-based primer.
- 2Apply Tip or FormGlue on a nail tip or fit a form under the free edge. Pinch to match the natural nail's C-curve.
- 3Mix Your BeadDip brush into monomer, wipe excess on the rim, then pick up powder. A wet, glossy bead = correct ratio.
- 4Place Zone 3 First (Free Edge)Gently pat and press to spread — never wipe or drag.
- 5Build Zone 2 (Apex)Slightly larger bead at the stress point. This is the highest point — build it thick for strength.
- 6Blend Zone 1 (Cuticle Area)Small, wet bead at zone 1. Keep it thin — product touching the cuticle will lift.
- 7Remove Form, Shape & FileOnce fully hardened, remove the form. File with 100/180 grit to shape and smooth.
- 8Buff & FinishBuff with a 220 buffer until smooth. Apply top coat, cure, and wipe.
Acrylic Product List
- All nail prep products (see Prep guide)
- Acid-based primer — Young Nails, NSI, or Mia Secret (non-negotiable)
- Acrylic monomer (liquid) — always match brand to powder
- Acrylic powder — clear, pink, or white
- Kolinsky acrylic brush (size 8–12)
- Nail tips or nail forms + nail glue
- 100/180 grit nail file + 220 grit buffer
- Top coat (gel or regular) + dappen dish for monomer
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The Theory
Tricks • Tidbits • Structural Mechanics
Less is more. Thin layers = better adhesion. Thick product is the #1 cause of lifting and cracking.
Temperature affects acrylic. Cold rooms = slow set; hot rooms = fast set. Adjust your monomer ratio.
Apply cuticle oil every single day. Hydrated skin and nails improve retention more than any product.
Cure time matters. Under-curing is just as bad as over-curing. Follow your lamp's instructions exactly.
Don't touch the nail plate after IPA wipe. Your skin's natural oils will immediately compromise adhesion.
The apex (zone 2) is your stress point. Build it thicker here — this is where most breaks happen.
Not all products play well together. Stick to one brand system when possible, especially gel and top coat.
E-file grit matters. Use 80/100 for removal, 150/180 for shaping, 220+ for buffing smooth.
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The Retention Stack
Products in the exact order they should be applied
- E-file or hand file (100/180 grit)Remove shine from the natural nail
- Nail brushSweep away dust thoroughly
- Lint-free wipesFor IPA application — never cotton balls
- 99% Isopropyl AlcoholClean and dehydrate the nail plate
- Nail dehydratorYoung Nails Protein Bond, IBD Desiccant, or Mia Secret
- Application ruleApply and let fully evaporate — do NOT wipe off
- Acid-free primerFor gel and Gel X — Modelones, Beetles, or Apres Nail
- Acid-based primerFor acrylic only — Young Nails, NSI (use sparingly)
- Key rulePrimer is the #1 retention booster — never skip with acrylics
- Builder gel / Base gelApres Extend Gel, Modelones Builder Gel, or Beetles Builder
- Bond-strengthening base coatFor natural nails — OPI Bond-Aid or Orly Bonder
- No-wipe gel top coatPrevents chipping and adds durability
- UV-protective top coatReduces yellowing from sun exposure
- Cuticle oil (daily)Hydrated skin = better retention at the cuticle
Top Retention Boosters
- Dehydrator — removes moisture & oils from the nail plate; apply and let evaporate, never wipe
- Primer — creates a chemical bond between nail plate and product; essential for acrylics
- Cuticle oil daily — flexible skin prevents micro-lifting at the cuticle
- Thin layers — thick product = more points of failure
- Cap the free edge — seal the tip with every coat to lock out moisture
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